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German Angora Rabbits for Sale

On October 27, 2016, in Rabbits for Sale, by tina

I am reducing down and have decided to rehome many of my rabbits. I have adult German angoras and high percentage Germans. These are nice rabbits that produce beautiful wool. I have used the wool for spinning felting and have had mill spun yarn made with it.

Just email if interested and I can give you the update of the rabbits for sale. Please remember these rabbits need to be sheared every 3 months.

 

 

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Newborn German Angora Babies

On May 23, 2015, in Rabbits for Sale, News, by tina

Its nearing the end of May and a couple of brand new litters have just arrived on the farm – all pure German angora rabbits.

Newborn German angoras

Newborn German angoras

Just hours old

Just hours old

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will be retaining some of these babies and have a waiting list started for the others.

My niece – Melissa has been busy working on some adorable felted pin cushions. I wanted to share them – they are so cute. These were gifts she made for her mother and I for our birthdays. Her mom enjoys working with wool – so she made her the sheep pincushion. Of course she knows how much I enjoy my rabbits so I received the bunny one.  I think we have convinced her to make some extra to sell – so if your interested contact me and I will get more information.

Sheep Pincushion

Angora Bunny Pincushion

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When you are ready to start breeding angora rabbits its important to make sure the doe is in good condition first. Check her over good to make sure their is no signs of illness or health issues. I like to  shear the doe first but always leave a little length to wool, and by the time the babies arrive her wool is a good length for nest making. If shearing is not an option the doe can be clipped underneath before she kindles, but try to do this before its too close to due date.  Another thing to check is to make sure the doe is eating well. A good pellet ration along with a handful of grass hay is a balanced meal for the angora rabbit. I give a measured amount of pellets each day. If I see pellets are all cleaned up and the rabbit is eagerly waiting I know they are happy and healthy. If pellets are left behind for several days it gives me a signal something may be wrong with the rabbit.  Treats are alright  but give it in small amounts and not to often. You want a doe that is a good weight for her breed type so she doesn’t have problems with kindling. If the doe is healthy its time to take her to the bucks cage. Let the breeding take place once or twice and then the doe can be removed and taken back to her cage. I do not leave the doe in with the buck for any length of time. For one thing I like to know the due date of when to expect the litter. I also have know of some instances where does attacked the bucks enough to cause life threatening injuries. So I always stay near by and remove the doe back to her own cage. If the breeding was not successful, wait a few days and try again. Sometimes the scent of the buck will help get the doe ready for breeding. Write down the day of the breeding and count 31 days from that date. This will give you an idea of when to expect the litter. Remember though they could come a few days earlier or later. Make sure about a week before to place a nest box in with the doe if their are no drop nest boxes in the cage. Provide nesting material, straw being a great choice. A few days before the doe is due I reduce the pellet ration down about a third to half, and keep it that way until she kindles. After the birth I slowly bring the pellets up to full amount over a few days. I do this to help reduce the chance of getting ketosis. I once lost a doe to this and learned this is the way to help prevent it. As the babies start growing the doe will need pellets increased. Do this slowly- to  much to fast could cause the doe to get mastitis. As the babies start opening their eyes they will slowly discover pellets and hay. Around 6-7 weeks old they should be eating well enough on their own and the doe will have weaned them completely. Around this time the doe can be placed in a cage of her own and the babies can stay together for a while. By 8 weeks they can placed in their new homes.

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Different Types Of Wool For Knitting

On April 26, 2011, in Spinning, by tina

 

Wool usually comes from sheep, but it can also come from rabbits, goats and llamas. There are many different types of wool, but they all share certain characteristics. The most important characteristic is that it easily absorbs moisture. It can absorb up to 30 percent of its weight without feeling wet, plus the moisture content in the wool helps to prevent a build-up of static electricity. Wool will keep you warmer than other fibres. Wool is also very elastic and can easily be stretched when wet; yet it is still able to return to its normal shape once it is dry. All of these factors make it very comfortable to wear. The following is an explanation of the different types of wool that can be used for knitting. Angora wool is a light, natural fibre that is grown only by angora rabbits. The wool can be gathered in two ways. The first way is to comb the rabbit at least once a week. While time consuming, this method produces superior quality fleece, as guard hair is not gathered. The second way is to shear the rabbit, much like a sheep. This method is less time consuming and yields a larger quantity of fleece. It has been found that angora wool is up to three times warmer than sheep wool. Cashmere wool is extremely soft. It comes from Cashmere goats, which can be combed or sheared. If the goat is sheared, the coarse guard hair must be removed. Since both methods are time consuming, cashmere is very expensive. Llama wool is one of the finest wools that you can find. It comes from the llama’s undercoat, which is very fine, unlike the llama’s coarse outer guard hair. Like angora goats and rabbits, llamas can be sheared or brushed in order to gather this fine undercoat. Llama wool is not commonly used and can be hard to find. Merino wool comes from Merino sheep. It is the finest and softest of all wool that comes from sheep. It is easy to dye and comes in a wide range of colours, from pastels to bright shades to multi-colour strands. Most Merino wool comes from Australia and New Zealand, with Australia producing about 43 percent of the world’s supply. Mohair wool is grown on Angora goats. The mohair is shorn from the goat twice a year, once in spring and once in fall. Mohair is noted for its high lustre and sheen, as well as being very durable. Like angora wool, mohair is very warm and absorbs moisture. Tip: When washing clothing made from wool, use net bags. Place the clothing item in the net bag, then place it in the washer in the delicate cycle. When the wash is done, hang or lay flat to dry. This works even for clothes that say to hand wash only.

Please visit http://www.beautifulcreations.ca./Needlework/Needlework.htm to see the latest trends in wool. While you are there, check out our free newsletter and project ideas!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joanne_Jones

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